I once read that if you know how to make a vinaigrette, you know how to cook. The
preparation seems to be one of the easiest things to accomplish in the kitchen.
Yet many fine cooks reach for the bottle (no, not that bottle) when faced with the
prospect of preparing a humble vinaigrette.
A great vinaigrette is a sublime component of many dishes. Tossed with soft or crunchy
greens, drizzled over warm grilled fish, or glossing a bowl of hot Long Island potatoes;
vinaigrettes make the most basic foods sing, imparting a tangy richness and an intriguing
spectrum of flavors to every bite.
Most vinaigrettes are built on a combination of oil and an acidic element. Spend
your pennies here! Your dressing is only as good as your oil and vinegar. The oil
diffuses the flavor of the vinaigrette; it gives the dressing structure and its
sensuous mouth feel. Olive oil has long been the all purpose salad oil, but try
using almond or walnut oil. Healthful grape seed oil is great to use when you want
other tastes to shine through as it has a low flavor profile.
The tartness that awakens the taste buds and stimulates the palate can be lemon,
lime, orange juice, yuzu juice, mustard, or even soy sauce, but the most popular
choice is vinegar. Look for vinegars that have been allowed to mature without pasteurization
or added chemicals. The aroma should suggest the wine or liquid from which the vinegar
was made. The more specialized the vinegar the better (an aged Bordeaux red wine
vinegar or an aged Barolo vinegar for example).
Satur Farms in Cutchogue produces ridiculously delicious Sherry vinegar. I also
enjoy the nuances of toasted brown rice vinegar on a bowl of Sang Lee Farms' lemon
cucumbers. The sour saltiness of Japanese umiboshi plum vinegar is "the secret"
to Art of Eating's signature corn and smoked tomato salad.
A good balsamic vinegar is also a pantry must. There is fraud in the realm of balsamic
vinegars so be sure to buy the real deal, made only in Modena Italy and aged a minimum
of 8 years. Apple cider vinegar also has its place on the shelf. Television's "Chopped"
judge Chris Santos rode the range at Art of Eating for a couple of seasons and turned
us onto his apple cider vinaigrette made with organic apple cider vinegar and Milk
Pail apple cider. Cider vinegar is also perfect for cole slaw and salads containing
fruit.
Make your vinaigrette. Taste it by itself. Taste a dry lettuce leaf. Dip a leaf
in the vinaigrette dressing. Taste it again. Doctor the dressing if it needs it
with any of its ingredients or others you have learned to like (mustard, garlic,
capers, anchovies, etc.). Now dress the salad and taste it again. The right amount
of salad and dressing is most easily determined by eye, taste and feel, so follow
your own instincts. Make sure the lettuce is dry, and that you dress lightly and
at the last minute.
Luckily, all this advice amounts to more words than work. It will become second
nature in a short time. With a selection of good oils, vinegars, some fine sea salt,
and a jar of black peppercorns, you are set to enter the world of vinaigrettes.
Two vinaigrettes: Shallot and Garlic
Although it's not difficult to play around with vinaigrettes, I have two favorite
standards, one with vinegary shallots and one with garlic. Proportions of oil and
vinegar may be adjusted to personal tastes. Keep in mind that the strength of vinegar
varies from one brand to another.
Shallot Vinaigrette
- 1 shallot, peeled and finely diced
- 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar or champagne vinegar
- ½ teaspoon sea salt
- 6 tablespoons (maybe more) extra virgin olive oil
Finely dice the shallot by slicing it first lengthwise, then crosswise. It should
fall into a fine dice without you having to mash it through rough chopping. Now
put it into a bowl with the salt and vinegar. Leave it stand for 10 minutes, then
whisk in the oil to taste.
Garlic Vinaigrette
- 1 clove of garlic
- Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
- 2 tablespoons aged red wine vinegar
- 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
- 6 - 8 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Peel garlic and smash with flat of knife, then chop really fine. Put in bowl and
mash in ½ teaspoon sea salt until puree smooth for about 30 seconds. Stir in the
vinegars then whisk in your oil and taste after 5 – 6 tablespoons. Season with pepper,
add more olive oil if needed. Taste!
