New Yorkers know how to live life in the fast lane. There is a constant energetic
pressure that exists even while spending the weekend on the East End or going on
vacation (as I just did) that is hard to eliminate. Our calendars have to be constantly
filled with activities or we just can't possibly be happy. And if suddenly a weekend
appears and is without guests or dinner/party engagements, we feel compelled to
immediately get busy and organize something.
The way we live, entertain, eat, and even sleep is most often done with multiple
schedules, cell phone calls, and texting, all with such emotional pressure that
my heart rate increases just thinking about it. However, every once in a while,
if we are very lucky we can almost find and experience the complete opposite of
emotional frenzy – nirvana – that state of utter contentment.
My wife Dushy and I came close to achieving nirvana on a wonderful recent trip to
Tuscany. Every great trip will hopefully have experiences that can be life changing
for the better. Fortunately this trip was one of those.
In addition to the usual tourist pastimes (sightseeing in Florence, museum visits,
etc.) we had also scheduled 2 days of visiting wineries and crammed as much as we
could into our schedules in the usual frantic New York style.
And then the magic began. It was a warm, sunny morning with a perfect blue sky as
we entered the beautiful Poggio Casciano Estate – which is located just a few kilometers
outside of Florence, close to the small town of San Polo in Chianti, right in the
middle of the Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG production area.
The air was filled with the wonderful scent of cypresses, the birds were singing
and the cicadas made the sound of summer. We were greeted with the same warmth that
matched the day's summer heat by Francesco Sorelli, the estate's Marketing Director.
Instead of busily starting the tour and tasting, he instead invited us to "Come
and relax the Tuscan way - let's take some time to enjoy!" We were invited to be
seated on the terrace, have a glass of refreshing water from the well while having
a leisurely, pleasant and casual conversation. This conversation was expanded into
a descriptive history of Tuscany and the Estate while spiked with anecdotes of the
past and plans for the future. From there we strolled into the vineyard followed
by a walk through the estate and the wine cellar.
In the cellar, the informative tasting began "vertically" (tasting the different
wines the Estate is making) and then "horizontally" (going back in vintages). Ruffino
is a large producer of fine wines and its flagship wine - Riserva Ducale Oro - can
certainly stand up to the best wines in the world.
This was followed by the most perfect, unrushed 2 ½ hour buffet lunch - a huge array
of the most delicious locally made Tuscan dishes. Afterwards we had a short drive
further up the mountain to the family castle with a wonderful tour and the most
amazing bird's eye view of Florence.
The next day we visited two very small boutique wineries - I Veroni and Frattoria
Selvapiana - which were quite rustic by comparison to the Poggio Casciano Estate.
However, like the day before, the warm and casual friendliness was the same. The
wines were outstanding, especially the 2006 and the 1996 Chianti Rufina Selcapiana
Riserva Vigneto Bucerchiale. Apart from all we learned, we also had a lot of laughs.
The proprietor, Silvio Berlusconi from I Veroni Lorenzo Mariani, also President
of Consorzio Chianti Rufina, gave us a wonderful tour.
At one point during the tour, my wife asked him what his responsibilities were at
the Estate. He answered: "My passion is the winemaking but the money I make as a
Lovar!" So we were a little shocked and asked again – "A lover?" His reply – "Yes
- a lovar but not a Latin lover!
So we laughed but still were puzzled. Later at another spectacular lunch at Selvapiana
we asked Silvia Giuntini Masseti, the proprietor and wonderful host if she knew
how the President of the Consorzio is making a living and she simply replied – "Oh
yes, he is a lawyer." You can imagine the laughter especially when my cousin summed
it up with – "Now we understand why Silvio Berlusconi is often misunderstood."
So this summer the good news is you don't have to fly to Italy or to California
to have a great, leisurely experience like this. You can have a similar experience
right here on the east end of Long Island. All you have to do is take the time and
bring enthusiasm. And guess what? The magic can happen right here. Just remember
to "carpe diem" – just seize it a little more gently...and relax the Tuscan way.
Also, try this great recipe created by Michael Romano, Chef/Partner and Culinary
Director of Union Square Hospitality Group, and enjoy a taste of Italy. And if you
don't have a Sassicaia in your cellar serve a red blend from Long Island!
Sourdough Panzanella
(serves 8)
- 1 pound two day-old sourdough or whole wheat peasant bread
- Ice water (see note)
- 2 red bell peppers
- 4 ripe tomatoes, split widthwise, squeezed to remove seeds and juice, and diced
- 1 cup peeled and thinly sliced celery
- 1 cup peeled, split, and thinly sliced red onion
- 1/3 cup pitted gaeta or nicoise olives, coarsely chopped
- 1/3 cup washed, dried and sliced basil leaves
- 1/4 cup toasted pine nuts
- 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
- 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
- 1 tablespoon kosher salt
- 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- Cut the stale bread into 3/4-inch slices. If the bread is not completely hard, leave
it out longer or place in a 200° oven until you have the desired texture.
- Preheat the broiler. Roast the peppers under the broiler, turning them from side
to side, until their skins blacken. Place the charred peppers in a covered container
or paper bag until cool. Remove the skins by rubbing the peppers with a paper towel
or by peeling them with a small knife. Discard the seeds. (To avoid losing flavor,
never peel roasted peppers under running water!) Cut the flesh into 3/4-inch dice
and set aside.
- Soak the bread in ice water to cover for 5 minutes, or just until soft. Drain the
water, and with your hands squeeze away all the excess water from the bread. Over
a large bowl, rub the bread between the palms of your hands until it crumbles into
small pieces.
- Combine the bread with the peppers, tomatoes, celery, onion, olives, basil, and
pine nuts. Season with the olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper, and continue
to mix well. Serve. Note: When soaking the stale bread, make certain to use ice
water. If the water is anything but ice cold, the stale bread will turn into an
unappealing mush instead of a tender crumb which holds its own with the other ingredients.
