Wild turkey and venison, field corn, lobsters, sundried currants, walnuts from a
nearby tree, squash from the garden – an heirloom feast that would start any locavore
salivating. The Plymouth colonists and Wampanoag Indians just called it supper.
Today, more than 350 years later, we are finally getting back to our American roots
with a resurgence of heritage, heirloom, and organic ingredients, and items like
apple varieties that grew in Thomas Jefferson's orchards – like Russets, Pippins,
and Winesaps – Formanova beets, and rainbow carrots. Its taken us a long time to
understand that these ingredients are better for us, better for the environment
and taste oh so much better. We have begun to close the separation that has developed
between people and the food they eat.
Thanksgiving foods are those that grow closer to the ground, looking for the last
gentle warmth of the year. They taste buttery and smooth, reflecting fall colors
with deep oranges, mellow gold's and cranberry reds – a color palette for the palate.
Art of Eating's holiday menus aim to honor the spirit of the day. It is about being
grateful for our families, friends, and food. We East End cooks are fortunate to
have amazing indigenous and local ingredients to enhance the simplicity and timelessness
of traditional Thanksgiving fare.
This year we will procure turkeys from South Fork farms. Buttermilk for our biscuits
will come from Mecox Dairy and the flour from down the street at Amber Waves. Parsnips,
garden herbs, rutabagas, and Brussels sprouts come courtesy of The Green Thumb Organic
Farm. Corn to stuff our cornbread and organic Yukon Gold potatoes located right
around the corner. Organic sweet potatoes, a variety of squashes, shallots, garlic,
and the world's best carrots will require a well worth it trip to the North Fork's
Sang Lee Farms. While we are in Cutchogue, we can pick up cheese pumpkins from Krupski's
stand and eggs from the North Fork Egg Company for our Maple Pumpkin Pie. Milk Pail
apples, pears, and cider will aid in the classic Thanksgiving yin-yang flavor melding
of sweet and savory. Briny oysters delivered to our back door by Mike from Montauk
Pearls™ and Tom from Cornell Oysters will be the perfect hors d'oeuvres before
a sit-down feast.
If food is fresh it doesn't have to be fancy. This homespun rutabaga dish is a great
way to try them if you have never eaten them. Ginger-roasted pears and a bit of
maple syrup add sweetness and a touch of spice – a perfect balance for an earthy
root vegetable. I don't think it gets any better.
Mashed Rutabagas with Ginger Roasted Pears
- 8 to 10 servings
- 4 pounds rutabagas, peeled, cut into ¼ to 1 inch cubes
- 1 pound peeled potato
- Nonstick vegetable oil spray
- 1 ½ teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
- 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
- 1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger
- 1 ½ teaspoon sugar
- 3 firm Anjou pears (about 1 ¾ pounds) peeled, cored, cut into ¾ inch
cubes
- ½ cup heavy whipping cream
- 2 tablespoons maple syrup
- 5 tablespoons butter
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
- Coarse kosher salt
Meanwhile, preheat oven to 400° F. Cook rutabagas and potatoes in separate pots
of boiling salted water until tender (about 35 minutes).
Spray large rimmed baking sheet with nonstick spray. Combine oil, lemon juice, ginger,
and sugar in a large bowl. Add pears and toss to coat. Spread on prepared sheet.
Roast until tender turning pears every 10 minutes; about 35 minutes total.
Drain rutabagas and potatoes and return to pot. Mash to a coarse puree. Stir over
medium heat until excess moisture evaporates, about 5 minutes.
Add cream, butter, maple syrup, and thyme. Mix in pears and any juice from baking
sheet. Season with salt and pepper.
