Sadly, those crazy, hazy days of summer are at an end but now can be a time that
to embrace and welcome the changes that this season brings. It is not summer, yet
still not truly autumn. The Chinese aptly call these days "The Fifth Season." Earlier
dusks and cooler temperatures goad all creatures - human and otherwise - along with
the earth itself, to a much needed slowing. This segues into winter's rest, recharging
all for spring.
In the markets, the seasons are mixed as befits October markets almost everywhere.
We can shop for summer favorites like corn, heirloom tomatoes, and lettuces; then
tomorrow may be overcast and chilly and we are justified in thinking of braised
kale with golden raisins, pasta with shell beans and sausage, or a pear almond tart.
The bounty of this season truly inspires the cook.
Procurement of produce was the first step in making a squash caponata for a wedding
this fall. A call to Jen and Amy Halsey at the Milk Pail in Watermill resulted in
an amazing study in gold's and oranges being delivered to Art of Eating's back door.
Butternut, acorn, delicate, and carnival squash - the colors resembling the embers
of warmth we began to crave at this time of year. A delicata squash was immediately
cut in half, rid of its seeds and popped into a slow oven with a pool of honey,
tamari soy sauce, fresh grated ginger, and a knob of butter poured into the squash's
natural bowl. Left to its own devices except for an occasional all over brushing
of the honey sauce, the squash was ready to eat in an easy to deal with 40 minutes.
We all gathered round, spoons at the ready. It didn't just look like October - it
tasted like it.
Sometimes, I roast large wedges of squash with equal parts of apple and onion wedges.
Just a rub of the vegetables with grapeseed oil, a splash or two of apple cider,
a few sage leaves (if you like) and season with salt and a lot of fresh ground pepper.
One of the easiest meals I know is to toss a North Sea Farm's chicken (cut into
10 pieces) into these same vegetables and fruits; lay it all out in a shallow baking
pan and throw it uncovered into a 350°F oven. Stir it gently from the bottom but
only occasionally so the chicken and the vegetables have a chance to caramelize.
Make sure you do not crowd the pan. If you do, the moisture from the chicken, fruits,
and vegetables will let off too much liquid, creating steam and prohibiting the
lovely brown crusty coating that will make this dish particularly unctuous. One
hour later, dinner is served and it is magnificent. In true fifth-season style,
I would serve this with a salad of local lettuces, roasted heirloom tomatoes, warmed
Catapano goat cheese and leek crisps. Does it get any better?
Squash Caponata
(This recipe is adapted from Mario Batali's The Babbo Cookbook)
- 4 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
- 1 red onion
- 1 white onion
- 1 fennel bulb, cut into ¼ inch cubes
- 1 large butternut squash, peeled and cut into ¼ inch cubes (I most often
mix different squash types)
- 1 large celery root, peeled and cut into ¼ inch cubes (optional)
- 2 celery stalks, cut into ¼ inch pieces
- ½ cup capers
- ½ cup golden raisins, steeped in ½ cup red wine vinegar for at least
2 hours
- ½ cup roasted garlic cloves
- ¼ cup pitted black olives
- ¼ cup pitted green olives
- ¼ cup toasted pine nuts
- ½ cup oven roasted tomatoes, chopped
- 1 yellow pepper, roasted, seeded, peeled and julienned
- 1 red pepper, roasted, seeded peeled and julienned
- 1 tablespoon cocoa powder
- Juice of one orange
- 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
- 1 ½ teaspoons Sugar
- 1 tablespoon hot red pepper flakes
In a 12-14 inch sauté pan, heat I tablespoon of the olive oil until smoking. Add
the red and white onions and the fennel and sauté until they are golden, about 5
minutes. Remove from the pan and transfer to a large mixing bowl. Sauté the squash,
celery root, and celery individually, adding1 tablespoon of the oil to the pan each
time and combining the sautéed ingredients in the bowl as you go. Gently stir in
the capers, drained raisins, roasted garlic cloves, olives, pine nuts, roasted tomatoes
and bell peppers. In a small bowl, combine the cocoa powder, red pepper flakes,
orange juice, thyme, and sugar. Add to the cooked ingredients, stirring gently to
combine.
This can be served warm as a side dish or at room temperature with slices of grilled
bread or a good cracker.
