It's really never too late to start surfing — well, maybe there does come a time when it is — but, as long as you can move, there's absolutely no reason why you can't give it a shot. As sports go, it's as healthy as they get; you don't need a team (though, in the beginning a buddy is a good idea); the equipment outlay is steep to start, but care will keep it for a long time; and you get to pick the playing field (that's to say, the size of wave you want to surf). Finally, add all that to the fact that Long Island — from Montauk to the Rockaways — has some of the best surfing on the East Coast and, well, maybe the better question is why don't you want to learn to surf? Here are some things you'll need to know to get you on your way.
Your First Surfboard
Boards are (generally) made from a variety of closed-cell foam cores that are shaped and then covered with a layer of fiberglass or epoxy (although new tech building methods come out every day, it seems). Generally speaking the larger the board, the easier it is to learn on.
- You don't need a new board to start out. Rentals (and friends with older boards to spare) are a good way to get a feel for what works for you. Used boards abound in surf shops, on Craigslist, and at garage sales.
- The key word to look for is "cheap," since you're probably going to misuse and abuse this board. A board 7-foot-6 to 8-foot-6 is a good place to start. Remember that this is dependent on your weight - if you're lighter, go smaller, heavier, go bigger.
- If a board has open cracks, visible foam, or peeling fiberglass, don't buy it. Don't worry about the shape of the board or the fins. Something wide and thick is what you want. You'll also want a leash; this attaches to your board and your ankle closest to the rear of the board.
Wetsuits
Wetsuits are made out of neoprene, a rubber substance with nitrogen bubbles inside it. The suit only keeps you warm if there's a very thin layer of water in it that is warmed up by your body heat. The tighter (snug is the word) the suit fits (without restricting movement) the better.
- Buy a surf-specific suit. These will usually have lighter weight material in the shoulder and knee areas where a lot of movement occurs, and a zipper in the back. You'll see suits labeled 3-4-5, 3-5, 3-4, etc. The numbers designate the thickness of the suit in millimeters. Multiple numbers mean a different thickness is used in different areas.
- A 4-5 or 3-4-5 will do you for all but, say December through February. You may want to consider buying a 2-3 or a 3 mil for early summer and fall, as well. Hardcore East Coasters go five-mil+ in winter and suffer. Drysuits are an option. These let no water in and rely on insulation you wear for warmth. Successful surf-specific drysuits are a fairly recent development.
- Yes, you can find wetsuits used...but note that the difference between a wetsuit and a drysuit is that you can pee in a wetsuit. You have officially been forewarned.
- If you'll be hitting cold water, you'll need boots, gloves, a helmet (neoprene), and a degree of masochism. If you're worried about head injuries — probably the reason why you're in the water in January — Gath makes surf-specific noggin protectors.
Roof Racks
So how do you and your board get to the beach? Roof racks. There are a zillion, with Yakima and Thule leading the pack. An outfit called Inno (www.innoracks.com) makes attachments said to fit most factory car racks. FCS and others make soft (removable) racks. Either way, you'll need one...plus they look cool.
- I prefer tail-first mounting. When loading think aerodynamics. The wind is trying to push the board off the car from the bottom-front. Fasten down appropriately.
- With new, lightweight boards, a cover is de rigeur. With your old board...save the money.
- Tying boards to racks does not make them theft proof, though there are cable attachments that may — or make the thief angry enough to break the board. Yes, boards break...and you will break one every now and again.
Exercises
If you can figure out a way to lay on your stomach while swimming your arms through molasses for hours on end, patent it. Otherwise, use elastics fastened to a wall and mimic swimming motions. Anything to build chest and shoulder muscles.
- Do cardio exercises...that's what surfing is; a series of wind sprints both paddling out and catching waves. Dig out your high school band oboe/trombone/clarinet and re-learn to play it.
- Stretch. Nobody does, but everyone should. The real pros do.
- Sit-ups. The paddling position requires an arched back. If the abs aren't in shape, you'll tire faster.
- Big wave surfers (e.g. Waimea, Mavericks, etc.) practice running underwater carrying large rocks. That's to prep for being held down by a wave during a wipeout. Breath control at all levels of surfing is a must and comes into play going out, in, and under.
Etiquette
Get a copy of The Endless Summer (the first one). A bit hokey today, but it will impart some historical perspective of surfing. The more recent Riding Giants is another good one.
- Don't paddle out through the middle of a lineup (where everyone is sitting waiting for waves). Paddle out around the ends.
- If you're standing up once every four times, stay on the edges of the break and take whatever waves you can get. It will take longer to get good, but when you get good at catching junk, catching good waves is a snap.
- Don't drop in. That means if another surfer is on the wave and is nearest to where it's breaking it's his/her wave; don't take off in front of them.
- Unless you have full control of your surfing, stay away from crowds.
Now stop reading this, grab a board – yeah, you can listen to some old Beach Boys tunes – and hit the surf.
